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PC shutdown after raise in temperature


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You do not want to change settings to allow max temps as that can cause you to damage the system, instead you want to see why the temps went up.

Start by inspecting the system, checking that the cooling fans are working and are free from dust and/or obstacles.

There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do this....

How to clean your desktop

How to clean your laptop

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When I download a patch for the game my PC was running for more than 24hrs non stop.


Only when I play Battlefield 4 it shutdown. My PC spec just barely meet the minimum requirement for the game with everything set at low setting.


I have a CoolerMaster 212 HSF to cool my CPU.

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have you made sure that your PC airpath(s) and devices are clean and/or clear as firefox mentioned ?

there have been some complaints about the quality of the 120 mm fan used on your particular CPU cooler ... is the cooler fan working ok ?


by "temperature" ... do you mean the CPU temperature , motherboard temperature , GPU temperature and/or case temperature ?

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I am not familiar with the Asus M4a770TD related BIOS.  However, you may want to to do a few things...


1.  See if there is a BIOS update for the Asus M4a770TD


2.  See if you can manually set the CPU cooling fan speed such that you it can set to 3600 rpm.


3.  See if you can get a CPU cooling fan that delivers more air (rated in CFM - Cubic Feet per Minute) as compared to the present CPU cooling fan.

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that model of motherboard does appear to have "adjustments" for the cpu cooling fan (plus others) ; "cool-and-quiet" .

i have used asus intel based motherboards that have features similar to this one ... they were nicely adjustable .

hopefully , your motherboard uses the same basic features .

(personally , i do not/did not install all of the "utilities" that came with this series of motherboards ... there are a whole bunch of them !)


the price of a motherboard does not always guarantee performance .

high-dollar motherboards can (and do) have problems too .


as firefox said ... do not set the temperature so high that you will damage the cpu .

although , the internal/integral "failsafe" in the cpu *should* take over by folding back or shutting down the cpu or system .


i would also check the interface between the heat sink and the cpu ...

remove the cpu cooler , clean and re-goop the cpu and heat sink ...

then re-install cpu cooler and make sure that the mechanical connection is "firm/correct" .

tighten down the screws evenly (cross tightening) a small amount on each screw until the heat sink is firmly in place .


from what you said in post #3 ... the patch may have been a bad one ... try un-installing it .

also ... if you know for certain that your equipment barely meets the "minimum" requirements then you may have to lower the frame rate and/or resolution/rendering features (ie : crank back the shader level) , etc .


ps ... you mentioned "two fans" ... i only see these as having one fan :


please explain what you said .

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I added extra fan to HSF. I read that temperature around 60C would be still in the acceptable operating temperature.


I didnt install cool-and-quiet since my PC can cope with games back then without problem.


I did set everything to low setting in new games.


My PC is more than 2 years old. Guess need to upgrade to new hardware.


Sorry my reply is not fluid like yours. My frame of mind at this moment just put everything in point form.



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are the fans on the cooler set up as "push-pull" ... one on each side of the fin assembly ?


i have used similar coolers ... i have not had the need for push-pull ... if they are not turning at the same speed they will "fight" each other .

it would be better to have the actual exhaust side turning faster than the intake side .

i have changed over to pulling the air through in order to exhaust it out the back of a comp by removing the case fan , cutting away the punched grill and using a cardboard duct to couple the cooler to the outside world .

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doing what can be done and "first things first" ...

does the case itself have adequate airflow , a case without good airflow is like a convection oven .

decent air exchange with/to the outside world is crucial .


lack of case airflow can/will cause the motherboard as well as the cpu to overheat ... not to mention the power supply .

i pull air into the front of a case and push it out the back .

sometimes i will provide direct air to the cpu cooler intake fan ...

some cases have a side panel hole that is located correctly ... some flex tubing or "cardboard-n-duct tape" engineering can be put to good use .


it may be possible that your cpu cooler is "heading south" ... the working parts (heat pipes) have been known to fail .

i will mention again the importance of good thermal conductivity between the heat sink and the cpu .

in this case (pun intended) you may be facing more than one problem .

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120mm intake fan in front.


2 120mm exhaust fan on top.


1 small fan on back behind CPU and HSF.


2 push pull fan on HSF.



it may be possible that your cpu cooler is "heading south" ... the working parts (heat pipes) have been known to fail .

i will mention again the importance of good thermal conductivity between the heat sink and the cpu .

in this case (pun intended) you may be facing more than one problem .


I dont want to dismantle the HSF since I've read some stuck to the CPU cover plate because the thermal paste harden like cement. I dont have other PC lying around as spare. If something goes wrong its not a good idea to find replacement for an old CPU and old socket mobo.

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It sounds like there is plenty of chassis ventilation.  Thus we are back to the CPU cooling and it appears to be inadequate under load.  This means increasing the amount of air flowing over the heat sink either by increasing the volume (in CFM) a t the present fan speed or increasing the fan speed and increasing the heat conductivity from the CPU (transference) to the heat sink.


I have never had an issue with heat sink compound curing to a cement like consistency where the heat sink can't be separated from the CPU.  I do suggest dismounting the heat sink, removing the old heat sink compound from the CPU and heat sink then reapplying new heat sink compound to the CPU and then re-seating the heat sink.

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yessir ...

i have had some compounds "stiffen up" and had to apply a little angular torque to pop things loose ...

but i have never had a single case of heat sink compound turning into an actual "cement" .

it may not just fall off in yer hands , but it can be removed .

(ya gotta wonder about some of these *techs* at/in sundry places)


clean up the old stuff with naphtha or ispropyl/rubbing alcohol and a paper towel or two or small clean rags .

there is no need to remove the actual CPU from the socket .

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I prefer Isopropyl Alcohol [CAS No. 67-63-0] (aka; Isopropanol).  It is readily available as "DRYGAS" at auto stores and Super Markets.  Just make sure it is Isopropyl and not Methyl, Ethyl or another type of Alcohol.
Rubbing Alcohol is often cut as much as ~30%.  One wants 99%-100% Isopropyl Alcohol.

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