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Windows 8 upgrade tips you’ll wish you knew before the leap


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Windows 8 upgrade tips you’ll wish you knew before the leap

November 17, 2012

By Rob Enderle

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Learn before you leap with tips from a Windows 8 vet who’s been there, done that. And messed it up a few times along the way.

I’ve now installed Windows 8 five times. Some installations have gone amazingly well, and one went horribly awry, bricking an entire PC. Having experienced the best and worst Windows 8 has to offer, let provide some recommendations on how to upgrade with the least pain possible.

.0 products

Windows 8 is what we call a “.0” product, the first in what will be a new series. The last time Apple did a .0 product was the move to OS X, which is why recent upgrades seem to be relatively painless. Microsoft makes major changes far more often, generally to address critical security holes and to catch up with leaps forward in hardware.

Microsoft’s past .0 products have included Vista, Windows 2000, and Windows 95; all came with plenty of teething pains. Having experienced all of those (I once bricked my CEO’s laptop with Windows 95 accidentally) my standard recommendation is to not upgrade early to any .0 product unless you are willing to experience some pain.

Having said that, Windows 8 has generally performed far better than any .0 product I’ve so far experienced but, for most thinking about upgrading existing hardware, I’d recommend waiting at least a quarter so most of the hardware incompatibilities and other issues have been corrected.

The best path early on is to simply buy something that already is running the OS, because it has been tested at several levels. To date, every Windows 8 machine I’ve been sent has performed flawlessly.

Bricking a PC

The worst experience I had was with a very high-end, very unique PC that Intel had sent over to showcase extreme performance. I figured if Windows 8 would upgrade this machine, it could upgrade any machine. Turns out it can’t.

The upgrade seemed to work, but I noticed that the one of the USB systems was constantly failing and resetting, so clearly the system didn’t like one of the drivers. I started to perform a clean installation (deleting the partitions and loading the system fresh), but that resulted in blue screens of death and the installation wouldn’t complete.

Lesson learned: With a very highly customized system, there is a risk right now that Windows 8 won’t complete installation. The fix will be to swap out the motherboard with one that is Windows 8 certified, and the problem will clear. If you want to try anyway, make sure you take a full system image copy of your drive so you can restore it back to the way it was if Windows 8 doesn’t work. Because I hadn’t done that, I didn’t have this option.

Wrecking a laptop

Windows 8 uses the edges of the screen (or a touchscreen) to bring up menus. Many laptops that shipped before Windows 8 (if not most) have raised edges around the pad as a design feature, or are “center weighted” to prevent accidentally moving the cursor while you type. Both these features work poorly with Windows 8. Finally, multi-touch touchpads are still rare, and Windows 8 without a good touchpad sucks in use. You can use a mouse, it’s far from ideal. Products like this are better off left running Windows 7.

Upgrading versus installing from scratch

Generally, I advise a clean installation. It cleans out your PC of all the crap that you’ve loaded, both on purpose and accidentally from malware (unless you have installed a root kit). While it takes longer, the end result is much closer to a brand new system. However, you have to reinstall all of your apps. An upgrade leaves in place all of your apps, and Windows 8 has the best upgrade process I’ve ever seen from Microsoft.

That said, I think it is even more important to do a clean installation with Windows 8. This is because if you choose to install new apps from the Windows Store going forward, you can easily migrate these apps and get the benefits of clean installation, plus the speed of an “in place” upgrade. Going from Windows 8 to Windows 9, 10 and so on will go much more easily if you make a clean break from Windows 7 and embrace Windows 8 apps. The exception, ironically, is Microsoft Office, which won’t fit this model until the Windows 9 timeframe.

On my last system, I put together the hardware, installed Windows 8 and Office, and was in full production in under two hours. That’s going from a bare case and parts, all in separate boxes, to an up and running PC on my desk. I’m convinced that if I didn’t screw around (I had some issues with a cheap power supply I had to address), I could do it in under an hour. Historically it takes me around four hours to do the same thing, and even then, all my settings and files aren’t fully in place for several days.

Acquiring the OS

While the installation may be simpler, choosing a package to install is more confusing this year. If you buy an upgrade package, you get Windows 8 Pro, if you install on fresh hardware or you are buying a new PC, chances are it comes with plain Windows 8. (Personally, I have yet to miss any of the features that are uniquely in Pro.) Even more confusing: If you upgrade Windows 8 to Pro, you get Media Center, but if you upgrade to Pro or put Pro on a new system, you don’t. If you download the Windows 8 Pro upgrade from Microsoft, it costs around $40; if you buy the DVD it costs around $65; if you buy the “systems builder” copy of Windows 8 it costs around $85; if you buy the “system builder” copy of Windows 8 Pro you are approaching $125. Windows Media Center is around $10 on top of Pro, and the upgrade from Windows 8 to Pro is $65.

The cheapest path if you have a Windows 7 system (along with the image disk) is to download and install the Windows 8 Pro upgrade for $40, and then upgrade it to Media Center for another $10 (assuming you want Media Center). The most expensive way is to buy the system builder Windows 8 for around $85, then buy the upgrade to Pro for $65 on DVD. This lands you the same result for around $150, or about $100 more, for the convenience of not having to track down your Windows 7 DVD.

Wrapping up

I’ve completely moved over to Windows 8. I’m using Surface while on the road, and Windows 8 Pro on my two primary desktops. If you are happy with Windows 7, I’d stay there until you have a compelling reason to move or need to buy new hardware. The easiest long-term upgrade will be simply buying hardware designed for Windows 8 when you’re ready. If you do want to upgrade existing hardware, you’re best off waiting until after the new year to execute the move. Most of the fixes from us early adopters will be in the product by then, and help resources will be far less stressed out if you need to use them.

One thing to keep in mind, though: That $40 download price for the upgrade is supposed to expire, so you may want to get it and the key while it is on sale, then do the upgrade when ready.

Good luck! If you’ve made the move to Windows 8 already – or tried and bounced – I’d love to see your comments on the experience. For me, even with all the .0 warts, this has been the easiest and fastest OS I’ve ever installed. It’s fun to build systems again… at least as long as you build them using a motherboard that was designed for Windows 8.

SOURCE: http://www.digitaltr...efore-the-leap/

Steve

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The term can mean both.

However, another use of the term "bricked" is understood to describe a situation where a device is unable to function even when the device does have potential to be recovered later to a working state. In this sense, the damage may be reversible; it is only during the period that it's unable to function that the device is deemed "bricked". This is often referred to as a "soft brick" whereas an unrecoverable device is a "hard brick".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bricking

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Why would an OS install result in "bricking" a PC...? The author says to do a backup which would completely restore it. My understanding is bricking refers to a failed firmware flash with no way of restoring the system. It sounds like they don't know what bricking means.

this can happen when installing an OS (backed up data asides) ... towit : installing ubuntu on an "older" toshiba laptop .

i wanted to perform this task . this was not an easy job ; no internal dc/dvd drive (yep , this model was one of their first touch screen tablets) ...

and the laptop not "seeing" usb ports during boot-up , resulted in some research .

i found out about the only way was to obtain an external drive that plugged into the pcmcia slot , similar to these : http://compare.ebay....e/160921492831.

sooo ... not having one laying around i did some more research and started finding references to these laptops being "bricked" when trying to install ubuntu .

some the references i found indicated that the bios had been "pooched" others indicated that even with repairing/replacing the bios chip the machine was still toast .

there were more than just a couple of "chance incidents" ... i figured that i would rather have a working machine than a paperweight or wheel-chock .

(and "pooched" is a term that can mean "screwed up" (but repairable) or "totally toast" (as in "it needs a mortician , not a technician") or "not worth fixing")

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  • Root Admin

So my boss stops by the local BestBuy and picks up a nice new Lenovo i7 with Windows 8 and asks me to set it up for a new user.

Hey boss... one thing. Windows 8 cannot join the Domain, you need the Pro version for that. Downgrade to Windows 7, oh you can't do that except with one that already has the Pro version, and even then you need the media and license for 7 to put it on the new system - almost a catch 22

Looks like this one will be going back to Bestbuy - and maybe he'll listen to me and actually buy a couple the way we want them and put them on the shelf until they're needed instead of running out in a hurry to buy one last minute.

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this can happen when installing an OS (backed up data asides) ... towit : installing ubuntu on an "older" toshiba laptop .

i wanted to perform this task . this was not an easy job ; no internal dc/dvd drive (yep , this model was one of their first touch screen tablets) ...

and the laptop not "seeing" usb ports during boot-up , resulted in some research .

i found out about the only way was to obtain an external drive that plugged into the pcmcia slot , similar to these : http://compare.ebay....e/160921492831.

sooo ... not having one laying around i did some more research and started finding references to these laptops being "bricked" when trying to install ubuntu .

some the references i found indicated that the bios had been "pooched" others indicated that even with repairing/replacing the bios chip the machine was still toast .

But how do people even think this happened? Do they think Ubuntu flashed the BIOS? That sounds rather unlikely. I mean there's a fundamental difference between software and firmware, I've never heard of an OS affecting the firmware unless you were doing it specifically.

BTW I had that same situation where there was no way to load external media, USB was not bootable and it didn't make sense to get the non-standard external optical drive. I just swapped the hard drive out, installed on a completely different notebook (with Crunchbang Linux) and swapped it backm it works fine.

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not to derail this thread ...

as far as the "whys" of "OS-bricking-the-BIOS" goes , i do not know the specifics .

if i were paid to find out , that would be another story (/me checks sky for winged pigs) . :lol:

in some cases the information was sparse , in others there was no indication that they had even touched the bios (manually reset some items) .

i am sure that either someone here or out there in netland would have some information about this , it may be something to pursue for the sake of curiosity .

as you did , i tried swapping out with a "pre-loaded" hdd ... no joy .

also , it seemed that there was no touch screen operational software for ubuntu at that time .

i pretty much gave up on the idea and have not re-visited the issue since .

from what i gathered though , the older toshiba notebooks and laptops are notable for not wanting to play with a 'nix OS ...

although , some individuals have had success , albeit with some hoop-jumping .

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  • Root Admin

First big update for Windows 8 and altogether is about 400MB (poor people still on 56k)

An update is available for certain Microsoft files that contain an incorrect digital signature in Windows 8 and Windows Server 2012

The digital signature on certain files that are produced and signed by Microsoft expires prematurely on a computer that is running Windows 8 and Windows Server 2012

Download size: 163MB

Windows 8 and Windows Server 2012 cumulative update: November 2012


    Important The following Microsoft Knowledge Base (KB) articles redirect you to this article:

  • 2777166

  • 2758246

  • 2780342

  • 2771821

  • 2771744

  • 2778171

  • 2780523

These updates are included in update 2770917 when you install update 2770917 by using Windows Update.

Download size: 140MB

Plus about 7 other updates with these 2 bigger ones above.

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